THIRTEEN TIPS TO SUCCESSFULLY
OWNING A PET REPTILE
Don't buy your reptile until you learn as much as you can about the species and its natural history.
Think about what the reptile will eat; i.e. vegetation, insects, small mammals, and birds. (Will you be comfortable feeding live creatures?)
Make sure you know how large the reptile will be when it is full-grown. (That cute, little green iguana can grow to 5' in length within 3 years.)
Buy from a breeder or a reputable pet store that specializes in exotic animals. Your chances of receiving informed advice are better there.
Set up the cage/vivarium PRIOR to obtaining your pet:
Decide the size and shape of cage.
Heat and light sources (spotlight, natural spectrum fluorescent) with timer.
Water delivery system; i.e. bowl, spray, or drip.
Substrate; i.e. indoor/outdoor carpeting, soil, etc.
Have your pet's food on hand.
YOU MUST TRY TO DUPLICATE THE REPTILE'S NATURAL CONDITIONS.
Avoid stressing your pet (excessive handling and noise), especially in the first two weeks.
Almost all reptiles require natural, unfiltered sunlight; both direct and shade.
Radiant heat is the best source of warmth. This can be accomplished by the use of 50 to 100 watt spotlights, ceramic fixtures, and to a lesser extent, under cage heating pads. Do not use hot rocks as a sole heat source…they are potentially dangerous.
P.O.T.Z. (Preferred Optimum Temperature Zone). You must know the correct temperature range for your herp (usually between 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit).
Always wear gloves when cleaning the cage. The most economical disinfectant is a dilute solution of bleach (1/2 cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water).
Never allow reptiles where food is prepared. (They can shed organisms contagious to people, such as Salmonella.)
Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling reptiles. Use an antibacterial soap.
REMEMBER: THESE ARE WILD ANIMALS, AND THEY REQUIRE VERY SPECIFIC HABITATS. MOST HERPS ARE NOT WARM AND CUDDLY CREATURES.